A few years ago I was lucky to find a watery “Venetian lagoon blue” silk velvet Fortuny gown. Old…of course. Very early and without a label…but clearly authentic. Ladies would send their pleated silk gowns back to Fortuny after sitting would eventually press their pleats flat…and he would use his secret process to re-pleat the silk and send it back to his clients. The entirely pleated Delphos gowns were light enough to inspire Venetian Murano beads to weight them, and could be coiled into a small round box for storage. Mariano Fortuny (more here) used proprietary techniques for both pleating and hand dyeing and stenciling his silks and silk velvets. The hand created texture and colors, and even the slight wear of time at the edges, elevate the dresses to a piece of art. Foruny’s father was both a celebrated painter, and ardent collector of 18th c and earlier textiles…and early textiles clearly influence Mariano Fortuny’s work. Here is a one of my favorite 18th century pieces…a French silk satin “Bizarre” patterned cape, with large swirls of stylized peach pomegranates. So futuristic…and exuberant…from three hundred years ago. If you study Fortuny patterns you can see the reference to 16th-18th century design.
The fabulous pleats…waves of teal blue…
The sleeves and edges of the gown tied and set with Murano beads…
Fortuny Palazzo website here if you want to plan a trip around an exhibit.
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I am no longer blogging at Trouvais, but keeping the best of the site as is for those who would like to travel through some old content.
As evidenced earlier in my blog, my love for 18th c costume and textile continues. Some of my collection can be viewed here Trouvais Collection
And occasionally sell pieces on Etsy here
I enjoyed sharing my discoveries and delights with all of you!
Very best wishes, Trish
Hi Trish. I always love your missives. This post on Fortuny is spectacular. Your gown is perfection. I especially love the Fortuny gowns that are fitted with sleeves. The colors is so unique, especially since that tone is fugitive. Thank you–and have a wonderful fall. xoxoxo
Mary
Thanks Mary! I know what a Fortuny fan you are…love your pillows!
I visited the Fortuny factory and headquarters in Giudecca just off Venice a few days ago. The saleswoman invited us to walk in the garden while she wrapped my fabric. It was lovely, with a classical swimming pool and Palladian cabana, persimmon trees, manicured box woods, pyracantha, ivy and lots of old wisteria, winding around trellises. Think old statuary and a flower bedecked ancient cistern. Yet the garden had a casual, unselfconscious feeling to it. Then Bellinis on Harry’s Dolce terrace next to the sea as we waited for our water taxi.
Hi Gail. That sounds like a perfect day!
Trish,
So good to hear from you. I love that gown. The blues are so beautiful. I hope you are having a cooler autumn than we southern california folks are. It’s been blazing down here.
I’m headed to visit the slideshow, I could use a little trip to Italy this fine Friday afternoon.
xo,
karen
Hi Karen. It is VERY hot up here in Northern California. Hoping for a VERY wet winter for both of us!
Trish
That gown is gorgeous and even without the label it is Fortuny’s most recognizable pleated work.
Love the story about Fortuny, You could easily be a Descendant of the Fortuny family would your love of early textiles and fabrics, painting and the art of fine gardening.
correction: should read as: …. Fortuny family With your love of early textiles…..
Hi Joanny. Thank you! You know me well!
Hi Trish! LOVE all things Fortuny!!! On a visit to Venice, I “accidentally” strolled up to the front door of the museum. What a treat!!! If you ever come to New York, definitely go to their amazing showroom in NYC. The entire staff is so friendly and accomodating with lots of information.